As we approach the end of March, we, the watch enthusiasts, know all too well that it's that time of the year again. The world's strongest watch brand, Rolex, is set to introduce new models and, simultaneously, discontinue some of its existing ones. For instance, in 2023, they launched several new models like the Oyster Perpetual 'Celebration', the Day-Date 'Puzzle Dial', among others. Concurrently, they discontinued the Rolex Daytona 'John Mayer' dial, the Milgauss, and the meteorite dial Daytona.

This phenomenon actually inspired me to write this comprehensive guide about Rolex history. But before we dive into the details, let's briefly talk about what Rolex is.

Rolex stands as a towering figure in the watchmaking world, akin to a superstar whose brilliance is recognized and revered globally. Just as movie stars captivate audiences with their charisma and talent, Rolex watches draw admiration for their exquisite craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and unparalleled reliability. They are not merely instruments to measure time but are profound symbols of success, achievement, and refined taste. For some, they are investment watches.

Rolex has become the most popular and robust watch brand globally, leading the industry with the highest number of units sold annually. According to the 2022 Morgan Stanley Report, Rolex sold 1.2 million units worldwide, while Cartier, in the following position, sold only 620,000 units. That's indeed a huge gap, isn't it?

The report also highlights that Rolex maintained its dominance as the top Swiss brand, boasting sales of 9.3 billion francs and capturing a 29% market share.

Owning a Rolex is a statement of distinction. It reflects a person's appreciation for the finer things in life and a nod to their accomplishments. Whether it's gracing the wrist of a world leader, a top athlete, an esteemed artist, or a successful entrepreneur, a Rolex watch is a universal symbol of having arrived.

In this blog post titled The Complete Rolex History, we'll dive into the world of Rolex, exploring everything from its rich history to its iconic models. This is shaping up to be another detailed post, similar to the one where I wrote about the history of Casio G-Shock. Please bear with me. I hope you'll learn a lot. To be honest, I'm still learning too. So, let's enjoy this journey together!

In 1910, Rolex achieved a significant milestone. It received the world's first wristwatch chronometer certification, granted in Switzerland. This was a testament to the precision and accuracy of Rolex watches. In 1914, a Rolex watch was awarded a Class A precision certificate by the Kew Observatory in Great Britain. This was an unprecedented achievement for a wristwatch and helped establish Rolex's reputation for precision.

In 1926, Rolex achieved a significant milestone in watchmaking by introducing the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch, aptly named the "Oyster." This groundbreaking timepiece featured a hermetically sealed case, offering unparalleled protection for the movement inside and setting a new standard in the durability and functionality of wristwatches.

Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, was not just a visionary in watchmaking but also a master of marketing. One of the most iconic moments in Rolex's history involved the debut of the Oyster Perpetual, the world's first waterproof wristwatch. To showcase its revolutionary water resistance, Wilsdorf orchestrated a daring publicity stunt with Mercedes Gleitze, a fearless swimmer.

In 1927, Mercedes Gleitze attempted to swim across the English Channel that separates England and France. Wilsdorf seized this opportunity and asked her to wear a Rolex Oyster Perpetual around her neck during the swim. The swim lasted over 10 hours. Although the weather was challenging and Gleitze did not complete the swim, the Rolex Oyster remained in perfect working condition, demonstrating its exceptional water resistance. This event not only proved the watch's durability but also captivated the public's attention, solidifying Rolex's reputation for innovation and quality.

To commemorate this significant achievement and the watch's resilience, Rolex took out a full-page advertisement on the front page of the Daily Mail, proudly announcing the success of their waterproof timepiece. This groundbreaking marketing move not only showcased the watch's durability but also marked the inception of the Testimonee concept, a strategy that Rolex would continue to embrace, highlighting the real-world accomplishments of individuals while showcasing the reliability of their watches.

In the early 1930s, Rolex continued to cement its reputation as a pioneer in the watchmaking industry with the introduction of the Perpetual movement, a significant advancement that would set new standards for timekeeping precision and convenience. This innovative mechanism, introduced in 1931, revolutionized the world of horology by introducing the first self-winding wristwatch movement with a Perpetual rotor.

The Perpetual movement was a game-changer. It harnessed the kinetic energy generated by the wearer's movements to wind the watch automatically, eliminating the need for manual winding and significantly reducing the wear and tear on the internal components. This not only offered greater convenience for the wearer but also enhanced the accuracy and longevity of the watch.

In 1935, Rolex's association with Sir Malcolm Campbell, the "King of Speed," marked a significant chapter in the brand's history. Campbell set a world speed record on land in his Bluebird car while wearing a Rolex, demonstrating the watch's durability and precision under extreme conditions. This collaboration highlighted Rolex's commitment to excellence and adventure, resonating with Campbell's daring spirit. The successful record attempt with a Rolex on his wrist showcased the watch's reliability at speeds over 300 miles per hour, bolstering Rolex's reputation for creating robust and precise timepieces.

Sir Campbell fell in love with Rolex so that he wrote a letter to the brand. “I have now been using my Rolex Watch for a while, and it is keeping perfect time under somewhat strenuous conditions”, Sir Malcolm Campbell.

Following this achievement, Rolex introduced the Explorer, a model inspired by the expedition, designed to embody the ruggedness and precision required for such daring ventures. The successful Everest climb not only solidified Rolex's reputation for producing watches capable of withstanding extreme environments but also underscored its commitment to adventure and exploration.

In 1955, Rolex introduced a groundbreaking timepiece that would become an icon in the world of watchmaking: the Rolex GMT-Master. This innovative watch was born out of a practical need for airline pilots to keep track of time in different time zones during the burgeoning era of intercontinental travel. The GMT-Master, with its distinctive fourth hand and rotating 24-hour bezel, allowed wearers to read the time in two time zones simultaneously, a feature that was revolutionary at the time. The original GMT Master models—beginning in 1955—featured a so-called "bakelite" bezel insert that would glow in the dark,

The creation of the GMT-Master was a response to the specific request from Pan American World Airways (Pan Am), who sought a reliable watch for their long-haul flight crews. The GMT-Master's ability to display multiple time zones was not only practical for pilots and international travelers but also symbolized the connectedness of the world in the jet age. With its functional design and robust performance, the Rolex GMT-Master quickly became an essential tool for aviators and a coveted piece for watch enthusiasts, establishing a legacy that continues to influence the watchmaking industry to this day.

Btw, please notice the inside of the case back. Of course, we see the Reference Number 6542, but notice that underneath is says "IV.55", which means the watch case was made in the fourth quarter of 1955.

In the 1950s, Rolex had an ambitious project to test the limits of watchmaking under extreme conditions. The brand developed an experimental timepiece, the "Deep Sea Special," designed to endure the harshest environments imaginable. Leveraging insights from the development and testing of the first two iterations of this experimental watch, Rolex crafted the third version of the Deep Sea Special. This iteration was engineered specifically to withstand the extraordinary pressures found in the Challenger Deep segment of the Mariana Trench, the deepest known point in the earth's seabed.

In 1971, Rolex introduced the Explorer II, reference 1655, designed specifically for spelunkers and adventurers who required a reliable timepiece in environments where distinguishing between day and night could be challenging. This model built upon the legacy of the original Explorer, enhancing its functionality with a distinctive 24-hour hand and a fixed graduated bezel, allowing wearers to differentiate between AM and PM hours, especially useful in the absence of natural sunlight.

In 1978, Rolex expanded its prowess in the world of professional diving watches by introducing the Sea-Dweller 4000, reference 1665. This model, an evolution of its predecessors, set a new standard in underwater timekeeping with its remarkable water resistance of up to 4,000 feet (1,220 meters). The Sea-Dweller 4000 was designed to meet the rigorous demands of professional deep-sea divers, offering unparalleled durability and functionality.

In 2000, Rolex achieved a significant milestone in its history by introducing the Caliber 4130, a new in-house chronograph movement that showcased the brand's commitment to innovation and precision. This movement was first featured in the Rolex Daytona, marking a new era for one of Rolex's most iconic models.

The Caliber 4130 was a breakthrough for several reasons. It was designed with fewer components than a standard chronograph movement, enhancing its reliability and simplifying maintenance. The movement also boasted a more efficient architecture, including a vertical clutch mechanism that allowed the chronograph function to operate with minimal impact on the watch's precision. Additionally, the Caliber 4130 featured a longer power reserve of 72 hours, significantly improving user convenience.

In 2007, Rolex unveiled the Yacht-Master II, reference 116688, introducing the world's first watch equipped with a programmable countdown and a mechanical memory. 

This groundbreaking feature, crucial for yacht racing, enables skippers to time their start with unparalleled precision. The innovative countdown function is integrated with Rolex's patented Ring Command system, which allows the wearer to set the countdown duration via the watch's rotatable bezel.

In 2012, Rolex introduced an innovative addition to its esteemed collection: the Sky-Dweller, a technological marvel designed with the world traveler in mind. 

This new model offers a dual time zone display that is both intuitive to read and straightforward to use, catering to the needs of globetrotters who navigate multiple time zones. 

Furthermore, the Sky-Dweller features a unique annual calendar, named Saros after the astronomical cycle that inspired it, which stands out for its simplicity, requiring just one date adjustment per year. 

To enhance user-friendliness, the Sky-Dweller is equipped with Rolex's innovative Ring Command system, an interface that allows for the quick and easy setting of its various functions. 

In 2015, Rolex redefined its standards of excellence by enhancing the Superlative Chronometer certification for all its watches. 

This prestigious certification is a testament to the watch undergoing a series of rigorous tests by Rolex, according to its own stringent criteria, which exceed the norms and standards of the watchmaking industry. 

The Superlative Chronometer status not only underscores the watch's exceptional precision, power reserve, waterproofness, and self-winding efficiency but also comes with an international five-year guarantee

In 2017, Rolex solidified its longstanding connection with the world of cinema by becoming the Exclusive Watch of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, the prestigious organization behind the Academy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles since 1929. 

This partnership underscored Rolex's iconic status in the film industry, where its timepieces have appeared in numerous legendary movies over the decades. Additionally, Rolex took on the role of Founding Supporter of the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, demonstrating its commitment to preserving the rich history of cinema. 

No wonder that Rolex had an ad during the previous Oscars 2024.

In 2022, Rolex unveiled a groundbreaking innovation: the first Day-Date 40 crafted in 950 platinum, complete with a fluted bezel made from the same prestigious metal. This marked a significant milestone as, traditionally, Rolex's fluted bezels were crafted in gold. Years of meticulous research and development were invested to adapt the intricate guillochage technique, used to create the iconic fluting, to platinum, known as the "finest of metals." 

In 2022, Rolex unveiled the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, a watch that embodies the brand's pioneering spirit in underwater exploration. 

This remarkable timepiece is inspired by the experimental watch Rolex developed for James Cameron's historic 2012 dive to the Mariana Trench's deepest point. The Deepsea Challenge represents a culmination of Rolex's extensive experience and expertise in crafting diver's watches. 

Made from RLX titanium, a material chosen for its exceptional strength and corrosion resistance, the watch is equipped with a helium escape valve and the innovative Ringlock system, ensuring its functionality in various diving conditions, from open water to hyperbaric chambers. With a waterproof rating of 11,000 meters (36,090 feet), the Deepsea Challenge sets a new benchmark in deep-sea exploration, continuing Rolex's legacy of pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the watchmaking world.